135i manual launch

I have only done some street practice with track bite so that's why I had the spinning first also I don't have line lock so its difficult to get a real nice burnout to warm them up. I should be heading to the track soon.Lets see a wheelie lol. AT is good but I know in time the mt will get those better 60' times.The AT trans is great but im sure bmw didn't design it to drag race and launch. We set our 2-step to 3600 for the first few runs, we will be raising it the next time at the track. I hope this helps. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.However if stationary and the clutch is down you can Rev it and it limits itself to 3500rpm. Putting it in gear then makes the car seriously take off. Double revving it then takes it past 3500 to the limit. Is this technically launch control or a imitation. The dealer is adement it doesn't have launch control. Thanks It's on pcp so I'm sure I can do what I want to it It's on pcp so I'm sure I can do what I want to it Or in neutral if engines warm Will need to try this I take it dumping the clutch at 3.5k probably isn't advised often? lol It's on pcp so I'm sure I can do what I want to it He showed me this video. Skip to 10 minutes. I searched the forum and found this thread. Guy in the video does it twice. First time looks like he gets a bit of slip and revs drop to around 2.5k. Second go looks like he really dumps the clutch hard and revs drop to about 1.5k. Don't think I'll be trying that. Coming from a modded 2015 WRX, I had mastered the AWD launch and drag race inspired shifting, but the experience is not crossing over to the Bimmer. I am having trouble identifying if the problem is me or the car. Impression 1) This car bucks no matter what RPM I launch at and I have been unable to achieve the type of launch that results in a fluid scoop off the line sprinting to 60 feet in 1.8 seconds or under. I know what a good launch feels like and I just can't find it on this vehicle.

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It's an M-Sport model with a 6-speed manual gearbox and I was wondering what the ideal launch technique is to achieve fast 0-60 mph times without spinning the rear wheels or burning out the clutch? Jack I would do a little of both and see what works for you. Some people are good at one and not the other I'm having a few choice mods as well: Quaife LSD, Hartge adjustable suspension, Hartge anti-roll bars, Conti Sport tires.should handle ok If you don't mind my asking. Do they replace your rearend or modify it? If you don't mind my asking. Do they replace your rearend or modify it? At least that was true when I replaced my open diff on my previous car (350Z). There have been multiple threads in the past (including a recent one with pictures), so please use the search function to find them.Do you REALLY want to know.You'd need a whole new diff housing (do a search) and that is very expensive. The Quaife diff is just the gears. The sweet spot is 4300 rpm with some clutch slip to control the wheelspin. Below that, the engine bogs.The sweet spot is 4300 rpm with some clutch slip to control the wheelspin. Below that, the engine bogs. Practice alone and then go to the track.We set our 2-step to 3600 for the first few runs, we will be raising it the next time at the track. We run between 18-20 psi in the slicks and it seems to work well. I hope this helps. We set our 2-step to 3600 for the first few runs, we will be raising it the next time at the track. I hope this helps. These cars do 1.5-1.6 60ft on a good day and I feel like there would be much more potentential if we could get more rubber then rim. Im assuming you slip the clutch a good amount. These cars do 1.5-1.6 60ft on a good day and I feel like there would be much more potentential if we could get more rubber then rim. Im assuming you slip the clutch a good amount.

The only way to eliminate the violent engagement is to shift slower and let the RPM fall a few more thousand. You are loosing time going to red line. That did help a lot with the clutch action and dead space, but obviously does nothing to mitigate rev hang. Keeping it below 6k is your best option. I'm adjusted to it now, but I wish I didn't have to be. I've never had a car that does not like to grab 2nd on WOT. The only way to eliminate the violent engagement is to shift slower and let the RPM fall a few more thousand. I'm on a PWG vehicle so power falls off big time after 5,000 rpm. I can nail the 1-2 fairly smoothly this way most of the time. Grey Join Date: Dec 2012 It's very finicky, some dats smooth others rough as shit.I'm not sure what my 60 ft.Regarding the 1-2 shift I don't have much of a problem with this, I can get the shift pretty smooth. Mine got lost when I went BM3 but if you are stock or have JB4 it should be an option on your car.When you release the clutch the throttle will kick back in. I never straight up dump the clutch as it's a shock to the drivetrain and the car will bog even from dumping at 3,000 rpm. I use up the dead space in the clutch travel and hold my foot right before the engagement point. Then rev it up and release the clutch quickly. This technique gets me the smoothest, quickest launches. I hit 0-60 in 4.6 seconds on a bogged launch, but I wasn't logging my better launches the other day so I think I can get sub 4.5. The fact that the car is AWD means you should launch higher to take advantage of the traction and get around bog. Yeah, it's going to be damn hard on the clutch too. I came from a 2012 WRX with a Stage 1 tune thus I know all about launching AWD cars. I currently have a 2016 M235 6MT (rwd) so I know how these 6MTs shift as well. Remember, these are turbo cars and with a manual, therefore you're not generating any boost on launch like you can with a brake stall launch in an automatic.

Impression 2) Anytime I take 1st gear to redline and shift into 2nd, it feels horrible on the transmission. If I rev match more aggressively and let the clutch slip a little just before engaging, there is improvement, but the unique throttle response of this vehicle makes this extremely challenging. I've grown to fear aggressive shifts from 1st to 2nd on WOT. Shifts feel so dramatic, as if someone pulled the eBrake for a brief millisecond. I have never experienced this in my decades of owning turbo manual vehicles. It's posible I am just not familiar with driving heavier cars, but I'm not certain. I did have a car once that had serious rev hang on the stock tune and I had a similar experience, but it wasn't as severe. A custom Dyno tune eliminated the issue. All insights are appreciated. I can see why even those destined for a manual go auto on the F30. I'm not sure what my 60 ft.Regarding the 1-2 shift I don't have much of a problem with this, I can get the shift pretty smooth. Maybe not the quickest but I do feel like the car is actually smoother shifting and easier to drive when going wide open vs.Have you tried the 6MT 'launch control'. Mine got lost when I went BM3 but if you are stock or have JB4 it should be an option on your car.First one is to release clutch a bit quickly and then release smoothly or release it slowly from the beginning. I can never get a fast shift but at least it's smooth by using these two methods. And we can't delete that delay valve.I've never had a car that does not like to grab 2nd on WOT. It's almost as if the flywheel or clutch slow down at different paces, one of them not following RPM movement. If I redline 1st flirting with 7000 RPM and do a somewhat aggressive shift into 2nd, the car will buck every time. The only way to eliminate the violent engagement is to shift slower and let the RPM fall a few more thousand. I've never had a car that does not like to grab 2nd on WOT.

These cars generate a lot of torque and a fast, high rpm shift, especially in the lower gears and with AWD, can be really hard on the syncros especially the 2nd syncros. I'd be careful slamming shifting the 1-2 and launching the car. If you're not at the strip, I'd strongly suggest just doing 2nd gear rolling punches and slower shifts. If I rev match more aggressively and let the clutch slip a little just before engaging, there is improvement, but the unique throttle response of this vehicle makes this extremely challenging. I have never experienced this in my decades of owning turbo manual. I can see why even those destined for a manual go auto on the F30. You might have an issue that could result in a new tranny: I grew up on sticks and after having this AT. I'll probably never get another stick again. My friend has a 2013 335i with a 6spd, but it's a rwd. I was with him yesterday and he let me sit captain for a drive. The car has a much different feel in almost all regards. Especially launching. My friend has a 2013 335i with a 6spd, but it's a rwd. Especially launching. The RWD will feel a lot more lively as well. I find launching my RWD M235 6MT pretty dang easy, but it does take some careful throttle and clutch manipulation. To me it's a bit like launching a FWD car. Launch rpm is key though. Way too many launch too low. You need to launch at a higher rpm and with more slip. If people actually went to the strip, they'd see that launching low will result in dismal 60 foots. I would most definitely not shift an N55 at 6,200rpms for max acceleration. An N54, yeah, that is around the ideal shift point. The N55 has deeper breathing lungs. I would most definitely not shift an N55 at 6,200rpms for max acceleration. The N55 has deeper breathing lungs. I have awd tho soo DSC off 100% of the time my friend. DSC off 100% of the time my friend. Don't dump it, but let it out quick so you aren't slipping it. Tires shouldn't complain too much, maybe a chirp.

Thus, the 6MT requires quite a lot of finesse to get off the line. The launch rpms are too low for an effective launch even with RWD and they'd be way too low for an AWD launch. First thing, put the car in DSC Off so that all nannies are off. Having the nannies on can and will effect the 1-2 shift abruptness. Next, rev up to 4500-4800rpms and release the clutch to just before it catches. When it's time to go, slightly release the clutch to where you feel the car rolling slightly and then release the clutch quickly as you're feeding it gas. You need to keep the rpms above 3500rpms at all times. Probably not until 5,000rpms are you actually fully off the clutch and then a fraction of a second later you'll need to grab 2nd at 6,500-7,000rpms. If you still get a bog, then launch higher. I wouldn't surprised if 5000-5200rpms is the sweet spot with a heavy AWD 335i. I launch my M235 at around 3500rpms with a decent amount of slip. That's about the most the narrow Super Sports can tolerate. FYI, clutch slip will help create some load on the turbo and generate more boost in 1st. The 1-2 shift in these cars isn't going to be overly smooth and I'd even say it's balky. I know what you're talking about with the abruptness and momentary bog when hitting 2nd. Turning off the nannies does help. The 1-2 can be short shifted slightly if you feel it helps. I've calculated the shift points and believe me, shift at redline. If you still don't believe me, take note of where the ZF 8AT automatics shift at when in Sport automatic mode. Redline, redline, redline, redline in the first 4 gears. Lastly, I would make sure the tranny fluid is fully warmed before beating on these 6MTs. It's pretty clear to me that the fluid is pretty thick (good for hard driving), but needs a good 15 minutes of driving to get fully warmed. Without the fluid warmed, you risk damaging the syncros.

I also have the ET street R's but had a hell of a time getting out of the hole, I guess I'm still getting used to how to slip the twin disk enough.It took me all day to finally get a sub 2.0 second 60ft, just keep working at it. Makes some power,good run.They only come on the fuel reinstatement after the NLS They only come on the fuel reinstatement after the NLSAlternative future options will be to adjust the knock noise averaging constant for transient conditions or when the MHD NLS code is complete it'll have blending factors to ramp the timing back at a user tuneable rate I struggled in the burnout box. It either wheel hopped, bogged or hooked. I'm also wondering if 26x8.5x17 bias plys will fit and offer enough traction. Makes some power,good run.Maybe 80-100lbs there, but I know I've added a lot of weight with the DR intake manifold and VRSF race intercooler.It can definitely be straightened out. The turbo doesn't have enough load to hit 28psi in 1st or 2nd, but I can get it closer to target in the remaining gears. I did notice that it's awfully lean on initial boost ramp up for each gear, wondering if I need to get a Hobb's switch that activates before 15psi or if I need to somehow get PI to spray earlier. As far as the NLS using the shift bog fix and PI safety.Right now I just have the shift bog fix checked, but not the PI safety. Whenever I had the PI safety box checked, the throttle was really sensitive and jerky when driving around town. I'm patiently waiting to try a flash only 2-step after finding that the BMS relay doesn't work as intended. If I could leave with some boost, I know I could chop the 60ft way down. Maybe you can hook a guy up How are you measuring your shift speed times (in ms). Did you turn down the limiter in your flash? Those are a great value for better drag times, that's for sure! By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Shifting up occurs automatically as long as the gas pedal is held completely down.

And bye-bye! As a class winner in 2011 at the 24-hour Nurburgring on the notorious Nordschleife, the hot-blooded race car driver conquered one of the most demanding racetracks in the world in a BMW M3 GT4. As a certified BMW instructor, the 30-year-old Austrian is the right man in the right place when it comes to transferring the fascination of racing to the road. “It is a great pleasure for me to work with people who are as enthusiastic as I am,” says Landmann. “I like to pass on my motorsport experience.” In no way do they constitute a binding offer by the BMW M GmbH. Visit your local BMW website or see your authorised BMW M Retailer for accurate details on the offers in your country. A Japanese driver elevated drifting to an art form.Frank van Meel, CEO, BMW M GmbH, also likes to use coaching to enhance his track record.We would recommend using one of these browsers: your Browser versions (unknwon) and higher. Since the 1M Coupe's N54 engine was also used in the E89 BMW Z4 sDrive35is, the 1M Coupe is the first M model to use an engine originally released in a non-M model.It is the second vehicle after the Mini E to be developed under BMW Group 's Project i.Retrieved 1 July 2015. Retrieved 3 August 2010. Retrieved 2009-11-15. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. For a better experience, we recommend using another browser. Learn more Facebook Email or phone Password Forgotten account. Sign Up See more of SR Speedworx on Facebook Log In or Create New Account See more of SR Speedworx on Facebook Log In Forgotten account.Always rocking it wherever he goes. BMW X6 M50d in for SR Speedworx protune.Perfect all rounder. Reflashed the 8 speed auto in a 2017 BMW 440i to Stage 2 and. read more I will admit I was completely wrong!. read more I was sceptical but took the plunge away, and. read more Buy online now!

You may not win a drag race with that method, but it's a safe way to launch the car quickly with minimal stress on the drivetrain. If you're going to turn DSC and DTC off.You are on your own when you do that (BE CAREFUL). I would just turn DTC off to start with (one press). It will allow the tires to spin but not allow much side-to-side behavior (e.g. drifting). 6K is the right shift point as noted. Launching in 2nd will put more stress on the drivetrain. And please again be careful. You might get some spin but not that much depending on what pavement are on. 2nd gear and 4000 RPM - you will burn the clutch like a match. The gear ratio is too high for second gear during lunch. In 1st gear if I remember correctly you get up to 45 - 50 mph so think what you doing to the clutch in 2nd gear when you lunch. If your wheels start spinning you pressing on the gas too hard.I made 4 passes. The first, i stalled the car. VERY embarassing. The last 3 got progressively better. I've been gearing up for the upcoming drag racing season so I've been practicing. Not sure if you're tuned or not. If not, just one click the DTC button and rev to 2000-2500 and release clutch and give her some gas. Should be good to go with limited wheel spin. I'm running JB4 so i can limit my boost in 1st and 2nd gear. Right now I have it limited at 10 in 1st but i'm going to lower that to 8.8 (stock) since the best 60' time i can get right now is 2.57. That's really slow. It's quite a challenge putting 440lb tq down to the ground with no LSD. Hopefully this will help some until i buy an LSD. I try to ease into 1st gear because if i don't i just spin. When I get a decent launch the car still spins when I accelerate in 1st. I've seen guys with no LSDs run sub 2.0 60' times so I know it's possible. Please help!!! I am attempting to find that sweet spot, (most power and least spin) for my launch and I seem to be bogging 50% of the time.

I think this car can be taken up to 3500 in 1st (maybe higher) with a smooth clutch drop and get better times but I wanted to see what everyone thinks. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. One of four(?) N54-powered vehicles in the 10's with a manual transmission. Otherwise if you just care about the results, slip is below So was hook up the big issue to topple. or.? Filippo Was NLS or 2 step used? Stock diff and subframe bushings with 120k miles. Stock axles as well, with no diff lockdown kit. So was hook up the big issue to topple. or.? FilippoWas NLS or 2 step used?It explained in detail my different launching and shifting techniques. I started the day trying to use 2 step and NLS, but stopped by the end of the day because they weren't working properly. The 2 step would rev up and hit the RPM I set it to, but then quickly fall. Not consistent at all. The NLS was good at holding boost between shifts, but it had a delay. Final results were achieve without either, just free revved the car and slipped the clutch like a mofo, then shifted as fast as I could the rest of the way. I had to slowly lower mine as i was too quick on shifts, if not itll still delay even if the clutch is out and you're ready to go. Wasnt sure if you knew or not! It explained in detail my different launching and shifting techniques. Final results were achieve without either, just free revved the car and slipped the clutch like a mofo, then shifted as fast as I could the rest of the way.I also have the ET street R's but had a hell of a time getting out of the hole, I guess I'm still getting used to how to slip the twin disk enough. I had to slowly lower mine as i was too quick on shifts, if not itll still delay even if the clutch is out and you're ready to go. Wasnt sure if you knew or not!

xHP Flash License starting at 149 EUR You can change between Maps as often as you like and combine each Map with our powerful Custom-Functions. Buy online now! xHP Map Pack starting at 69 EUR Easy and simple to use at home, you can safely improve the overall performance of your BMW, get access to hidden features and enjoy faster shifts just within minutes! Features and setup may vary depending on your vehicle. Please search for your vehicle in our finder, to see a detailed description for your very vehicle.Shiftpoints are adapted to make optimal use of your engines torque and keep revs low and steady all the time. Gearbox Torque Limiters are removed to open the way for proper operation when paired with tuned engines. Shiftpoints and Clutch-Pressures are adapted to speed up shifting and reduce reaction times. While the standard D-Mode mostly retains factory smoothness the Sport and Manual modes are optimized for the fastest shifts possible. Eventually features like Launch Control and “True Manual Mode” are added. Don't want to flash your car by yourself. Don't want to read into the details. You have no Android device? No problem. Search our dealer network, to find someone do the work for you. Find your closest flashpoint. First, lets start what LC actually is. Thats a pretty broad description and does not tell what actually has changed from a technical point of view. There you got it, your BMW accelerates. How exciting. For people having LC from factory, you can even read it up in the user manual on the iDrive ( ) and here's a Video from BMW explaining the usage. ( ) Unfortunately I found it only in German, but I think you get the idea anyway. (Note: The procedure is different on cars with Double-Clutch-Transmissions) So now we know how to activate it, but what's going on under the hood. There are a few of the car's computers involved to make it happen, but most important are the DSC (Stability Control) and the Transmission.

Both have to work together for an optimal launch. Initially, this mode was meant for Winter-Driving and is there on BMW's for ages, but has been of course refined more and more over time. It allows the wheels to slip quite a bit, before actually cutting power. Optimal Traction is generated in a tiny slip area, when the vehicle's tyres spin around 10-20% quicker than the vehicle itself is actually moving. The root sits in the chaining effects of the rubber with the underlying surface, which are optimal with some slip. Of course the optimal amount of slip and the grip in general vary with temperature, tyres, tyre pressure, surface etc. etc. Thats why it's so hard to match manufacturer 0-60 times with a stock car.they take care the outside conditions are perfect when measuring. Hard to re-produce on a random road on a random day. It's hit and miss. The second important unit is the transmission, taking care of optimal shift times and torque transfer on your way to 60 Mph. What the ZF 8-Speed Auto actually does in Launch Mode is to engage a different shift mode, which is only active when the aforementioned procedure is carried out. Yes, LC mode makes your transmission wear. Thats the reason, there is an undocumented limit of 50 launches built in to the ZF transmissions. After 50 launches the trans will silently never engage that mode again. How do we know that. Because we don't look at documentations, we reverse-engineer the transmission's code to understand whats going on inside. It's also that exact mode, that is added to pre-2013 cars, when they get flashed with xHP. Even if you have a BMW before Summer 2013, the flash with xHP will update the transmission to the most recent software, which has the LC routine built in. Eventually it can be activated on the older cars with some coding in other modules, but technically it does no difference, wether there is a flag or not. But there are more things to consider with LC, when running a car that isn't really stock.

There's for example the procedure with pressing the brake and flooring the throttle. On a DCT transmission the trans would be in idle position in that situation and there wouldn't be any power-flow to the rear wheels unless you release the brake. This means when going full throttle the engine will be instantly transmitting torque to your rear wheels and the brake has to overcome that momentum to keep the car standing still. This works without issue on a stock car, but on tuned cars with lifted torque limiters the engine can actually outpferform the rear brakes and they will start to spin, no matter how hard you press the brake. This does not mean LC is broken, this does only mean your rear brakes can't hold the power anymore. The solution is simple: Don't let the car boost that high, before releasing the brake. Just release the brake quickly, around 1 sec after going full throttle. This is also a major difference between LC mode on a DCT (Double-Clutch) Transmission and a Torque-Converter Auto. With the DCT the procedure holds a certain pre-set RPM (that's what creates that crazy sound on M-Cars) before dumping the clutch once the driver releases the brake. On a torque converter trans the engine just presses with maximum force against the torque converter until you release the brake. So the RPM you reach while standing still is not controlled. It's just the outcome of engine power vs.The next issue is the Traction Control during accleration itself. This is a tricky task as there is no perfect world, where each launch is the same. The engineers configure this process in the DSC for a stock car, with stock power level and stock suspension. Changing the tyres to a very different size, fitting an aftermarket coil-over suspension, or running 100 HP more than stock will all offset this calibration and in the end you can be left with a worse 0-60 than stock. Last but not least, tuned vehicles offer a different power band, which has influence on the optimal Shift-RPM.

Again, the RPMs to shift during LC mode are configured for a stock engine and yes, they will change with tuned engines. By how much depends on the engine tune. People with a Stage 1 tune will likely even benefit from lower Shift-RPMs compared to stock, people with bigger aftermarket turbos may need higher Shift-RPMs. This can only be determined on car by testing. (or by pre-calculating based on a proper dyno sheet) All issues described above can be tackled with the Custom Module inside xHP. It allows you to set the maximum allowed torque for 1st Gear. The last issue will be gone with the next release of xHP, where people will be able to set their Shift-RPMs during LC mode. Please note, that all of this works exactly the same on the ZF 6-Speed Autos, but they do not have the special super-hard shifting mode for LC. The new M135i’s turbocharged 2.0-litre engine will produce 302bhp and 450Nm of torque, giving it a 33bhp and 50Nm performance deficit in comparison to the outgoing M140i model. Styling updates over the standard car include more aggressive front and rear bumpers, wider side skirts, flared wheel arches, larger M-Sport alloy wheels and a huge twin-exit exhaust system protruding from a deeper rear diffuser. What do you think of our exclusive BMW M135i pictures. Let us know your thoughts below. All rights reserved. Follow us on Facebook Follow us on Twitter Follow us on YouTube Follow us on Instagram. There is somewhere in my manual talking about launch control but I've tried it and I still can't get it right, I'm starting to think maybe my car doesn't have. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf you can search and find launch control on there then you have it. The onboard manual is specification specific. Other ways to check: Do you have paddle shifters. This normally indicates that you have the 8spd Automatic Sport Gearbox (Option 2TB under your optional accessories) which is required for launch control. I have all the stuff.

If you can search and find launch control on there then you have it. This normally indicates that you have the Automatic Sport Gearbox (Option 2TB under your optional accessories) which is required for launch control. I have all the stuff.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWith the DCT that you have there is a slightly different procedure, something about moving the gear lever down into sport plus etc. I am not sure exactly what it is. A friend of mines with the 135i has the DCT and he has used the launch control and mentioned that to me. I will try and get the procedure from him and let you know.With the DCT that you have there is a slightly different procedure, something about moving the gear lever down into sport plus etc. I will try and get the procedure from him and let you know. Incorrect, the DCT E92 M3 uses the shift lever to activate launch control, the 335s work in the same way as F82 M4, as described in the original post, barring the fact that M4 needs traction fully off.I got it I got it but I'm too scared to let go, my heart skipped a bit when the flag popped up Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkTry and find a good empty spot to test this, in case you go a little sideways, you will nonetheless have lots of fun. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI got it I got it but I'm too scared to let go, my heart skipped a bit when the flag popped up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 5000 RPM launch Sent from the EdgeI got it I got it but I'm too scared to let go, my heart skipped a bit when the flag popped up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 5000 RPM launch Sent from the Edge That's why I chickened out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Feel free to browse in the list below. Please browse through the list to find the right one.What's your opinion of the company? Maximum allowed length is 80 characters. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed.